Buying a new computer
So here is the deal. I'm looking to buy a new desktop. Just the tower though (so no new monitor, keyboard, etc).
The computer I'm currently using though is roughly about 7 years old. I actually threw it together myself, though this time I'm thinking of just buying stock.
Basically, I'm 7-8 years separated from what is decent/acceptable as far as specs go. I'm not really looking for anything super amazing, I'm looking at spending about $1000 USD ($1300 Canadian). So I'm not certain what I should be looking for. So uhh...any help here would be appreciated
The computer I'm currently using though is roughly about 7 years old. I actually threw it together myself, though this time I'm thinking of just buying stock.
Basically, I'm 7-8 years separated from what is decent/acceptable as far as specs go. I'm not really looking for anything super amazing, I'm looking at spending about $1000 USD ($1300 Canadian). So I'm not certain what I should be looking for. So uhh...any help here would be appreciated
4
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Computer I'm currently running (desk-top) I did a full months research on components and then after purchasing them, had it fully operational in about 3 days;
- Liquid cooled ( they are VERY easy to install and are sealed now)
- 850w pwr supply
- 1tb disc drive
- 500 gb ssd drive
- 16 gb ram
- 4 gb vid card
- Asus Z87 Pro MB
- i5 4670 processor ( last year)
- cube case with 6 fans
- running Win 7 Pro
I am by no means a geek but builds are almost stupid proof today, especially with the plethora of You-tube vids to help.
Best to ya El, you won't regret it.
( note: get extended warranties!)
The thing I'm completely lost about nowadays is graphics cards. It's always been the most important part, I think, and the one thing you should really spend money on.
So to add on to Elminster's question, which graphic cards are the best now, radeon or nvidia? (yeah, I know I can look up 3Dmark, but sometimes it's better to get an actual person's view of things as well).
Both are excellent. Some may be prone to playing favourites with a particular STYLE of game is all. Check TOM'S HARDWARE web-site for best source of any computer related info.
note: I'm running a Radeon R9 270x (last years) and it runs Witcher 3 as smooth as any movie.
"What, sir? You would make a ship sail against the wind and currents by lighting a bonfire under her decks? I pray you excuse me. I have no time to listen to such nonsense." (referring to steam powered ships)
I guess back then I was rather apprehensive about installing something that has liquid that close to all this hardware. Particularly given my level of knowledge at the time. As it turns out I later went on to knock over a bottle of beer, spilling a bunch of it into my PC in the process, so it getting wet ended up happening anyway
Also, go full custom water or air. No all in ones...
Not sure why my current specs are necessary given that its basically a 7 year old computer (ok so the graphics card is from 2009). The only thing I'd be keeping is the hard drive
2.53 core 2 duo processor
400 w power supply
4 gb ram (2x2gb)
ati 4670 1gb graphics card
250 gb hard drive.
Oh and I just wanted to see what you're working with and if there's anything salvageable.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CyXqjX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
$254.99 @ Amazon
$32.99 @ SuperBiiz
$89.99 @ Amazon
$74.99 @ Newegg
$129.00 @ Amazon
$308.99 @ B&H
$37.99 @ Micro Center
$51.98 @ Newegg
Processor
AMD X8 FX8350 (125W) EightCore Socket AM3+, 4GHz CPU, 8Mb Cache, 32nm
Motherboard
ASUS M5A97 R2.0 Socket AM3+ AMD 970/SB950 Chipset | Dual Channel DDR3
2133(O.C.) MHz, 2x PCIExpress x16 | GLAN, 6x SATA 6.0Gb/s, 2x USB 3.0, 6x USB
2.0 | ATX
RAM
Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1866MHz CL10 DIMMs
Hard Drive (primary)
Seagate Desktop HDD 1TB 3.5" SATA3 64MB Cache OEM Hard Drive
Graphics
Asus GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card
Casing
Corsair Carbide Series� SPEC02 Red LED Window MidTower Gaming Case (CC
9011051WW)
Power Supply
Corsair Builder Series Modular CX600M 600 Watt 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Power Supply
Cooling
Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
That works out to be $1276.92 Canadian (with sales tax like $1440). Thats including someone else stressing over putting it together (so if I do it myself it'll be a bit cheaper).
I may end up spending the extra hundred to buy the 970 gtx instead. Most of what I've posted just happens to be what a local chain computer shop (Canada Computers) offers on their "custom" building website. Its nice though because I can just pop in and pick it up rather than having to worry about mailing. I'm in contact with them to see if something else (besides what that particular aspect of their website offers) can be arranged.
I'm also thinking of going for a larger casing. I've got a midtower at the moment and it can get pretty tight spacing wise. From a dimensions standpoint it seems like the difference in size between a midtower and a full tower is more vertical rather than horizontal. So it might be worth it to just get one of those. I made the mistake last time of going cheap on one. So I think this time around I'm going to look into a quality case.
For example, here's a benchmark from Guru3D
You can find lots of reviews if you're interested in doing your own research. Here you can also see why people recommend i5 for gaming and not i7 -- the price difference isn't apparent in gaming performance.
It has lasted me amazingly well.
It had to be got rid of because it came with vista, although it came with a free upgrade to win 7 and Microsoft office 2007. Kching.
It ran everything I threw at it. Apart from Baldurs Gate... Doh! Due to strange technicalities. It will still be used to put movies onto the TV even when I retire it from the front line (because my DVD player is from the 90s and is beginning to whirr when playing...)
My advice on computers is simply this.
It will be out of date as soon as you buy it.
So... Go for the bargain. That's the computer that is officially out of date and needs to be got rid of for new stock.
So... pop on techradar. Get the bees knees computer of 2014 and save the money.
Remember software is made for the majority to use, not the lucky few at the cutting edge of tech.
...
This does not work for mobiles however. Technology advancements has left my Neo Xperia from 5 years ago a veritable, unusable brick.
EDIT:
Have laptops got cheaper? What is going on? Go for a new one... I take it back.
http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/laptops-portable-pcs/laptops-and-netbooks/hp-spectre-x2-1306171/review#best-price-article-top
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/FjqJcf
(actual prices I paid including shipping+taxes: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/CFw2Jx)
I paid $926.18 ($876.18 after I mail in rebates), taxes and shipping included (not including the monitor). I also live in Ontario (I think I remember you saying you live in Toronto?), but I got a few things on Black Friday special, so I'm not sure how prices will compare for you.
Some of the part choices I made might seem a little peculiar to some people, here are a couple changes you could potentially make:
Get an i5 instead of i3
Get a cheaper mobo (non overclocking), unless you get an unlocked cpu
Get 2x8GB RAM
Get an SSD? (I already had one)
Get a cheaper/lower power PSU
Edit: I guess this would probably be more helpful if I explained my choices:
CPU: I found an open-box i3 for $120, and based on reviews that cpu can still handle 1080p at high settings for the most part
MoBo: I got an overclocking (Z170) mobo for 2 reasons. 1st, some gaming benchmarks of the i3-6100 shows that it actually scales with memory speed, so I wanted to be able to OC my RAM. I also did it for the upgrade path, so that I can drop in an unlocked 7th/8th gen Intel cpu down the road if I wanted to. I got the cheapest Z170 I could find, because there doesn't seem to be much point in spending more unless there's a particular feature you need or you want to chase the highest overclocks. I made sure to get a board with 4 RAM slots so I could toss in another 8GB later on.
RAM: 8GB is enough for gaming (for now), and I can easily increase it 16 when it becomes necessary.
GPU: The r9 380 and gtx 960 seem to be the sweet spots for 1080p gaming. The R9 380 seems to be a little more powerful (although it varies by game), as well as a little pricier. Whether to get a 2 or 4 GB depends on who you asked, but more people do seem to be leaning towards 4GB. I happened to find a good deal where a 4GB card was nearly the same price as a 2GB, so the decision was easier.
Case: It was cheap and had good reviews.
Power supply: Here's one area where I though it made sense to splurge. It's basically the only component you buy that won't automatically become obsolete. Due the 750w rating, excellent reviews, and 10 year warranty, it's basically guaranteed to power any single-card system I have for the next 10 years, which I thought was worth paying extra for.
I felt it was about time for an upgrade with me as well...So I can run witcher 3 and fallout 4 at least^^
As for building it yourself vs buying stock, you could always get the individual components and have some local computer store put it together for you. They generally don't charge a lot for that type of service. I did a major upgrade through a local shop about a year and a half ago, and they didn't even charge me for putting it all together. They had already made their money on the components themselves. I'm using an AMD 8320, and I have no complaints at all. It has more than enough horsepower for any of the games I'm currently running, and it isn't even top of the line. The big advantage of the AMD processors is that they're a hell of a lot cheaper than Intel, and in the vast majority of cases they are more than good enough for the general user these days.
I spend a fair bit of time reading up on PC hardware, and the majority of what I've read has indicated that you're better off with an Intel over an AMD for gaming at a given price point (possible exception being the x4 860k as a budget option). The only time AMD really makes sense is when you need lots of cores for cheap, which only applies to certain use cases (IIRC, stuff like compiling code and video encoding).
- I purchased a Cooler Master "HAF XB" case, which is essentially a 'cube' with two levels. Bottom is for PSU and the drives, top (separated by a shelf on which the MB is bolted) is for the MB, CPU, vid card, liquid cooler and all the other goodies that attach to an MB. All four walls and ceiling are removable for ease of access as is the shelf the MB sits on. It has 2 x 8" fans blowing in front grill, 2 x 6" exhaust (one lower level, one top level) plus the 2 push-pull fans that cool the liquid cooler radiator.
- Without a doubt, the most "user friendly" case I have ever owned for ease of access. Be aware, the footprint is approx a 20" x 20" x 16" (h) cube so this isn't gonna sit on your desk beside your monitor, unless the kitchen table is your desk.
- I find (like many) the i5 CPU is ideal for gamers. My 4670 is a year old but still rocks all new games.
- RAM is crucial ( heh, no pun intended) but 8 gb minimum in two sticks (4gb x 2) so you can upgrade later to 16 gb in two sticks is wise future proofing.
- Curious to see the H80i liquid cooler get dinged by a poster (does he have experience with the latest ones?) I find it flawless. Keep in mind, if you get a passive radiator, the beast is gonna be HUGE for the processors currently on market. An antiquated and space hogging concept best thrown in the same bin with the floppy disc drive, IMHO.
- Skimping on your power supply unit (PSU) is also considered by many, the WORST decision you could ever make. Do they put 4 cylinder engines in 4wd trucks that expect to pull trailers? They do not. A great PSU will also future proof your 'puter. It is the engine that drives the whole beast. Ensure it has power to spare!
I recommend an 850 watt as minimum! The price difference is negligible for such a vital component.
- many have stated that getting both a disc drive and an SSD drive is worthwhile, I heartily agree. I also have an external SSD (250gb) for back-up of critical info plugged in via usb 3.0 ( get at least 4 usb portals btw). I back-up once a week, minimum, as part of my Sunday night start before bed routine ( this plus virus scan and once a month de-frag).
- I run Win 7 Pro. It is working admirably with all I utilize. Now DAILY I get the damn Windows 10 advert to upgrade. Well, I will select my own time/date for that and in no hurry to do so.
- Last, I'd like to plug the program "CCleaner". I use it after EVERY session of Internet usage. On average it eliminates 350-400 mb of garbage EACH session ( yeah, that's just how much junk floods your temp files every time you go on the internet, well your mileage may vary by porn content, wink), and can be customized to personal requirements.
- speaking of porn ( which I personally find VERY dangerous to computers), if you find a site you trust, bookmark it and stop surfing dammit! It is almost a guarantee you will get a virus!
- okay, one more point. A home build is probably the most rewarding project you will ever undertake. It teaches you how EVERYTHING in that box works and makes future upgrades extremely less painful. As I stated before, there are so many vids on Youtube that will WALK YOU THROUGH the process you have a better chance of screwing up your own vehicle oil change. Just be dang sure you get extended warranties on key components (vid card, CPU, cooler, PSU, drives).
M2c
I will of course, hold to Forum rules and no more need be said.
Hard Drive
Seagate Desktop HDD 1TB 3.5" SATA3 64MB Cache OEM Hard Drive
Processor
Intel Core i5-6600 Quad-Core Processor | Socket LGA1151, 3.3Ghz, 6MB L3 Cache, 14nm | (Retail Boxed) Gen6
Video Card
ASUS Strix GeForce GTX 970 4GB GDDR5 (STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5) | 1114Mhz Clock, 7010Mhz Memory | PCI Express 3.0, Dual DVI, HDMI, Display Port
Casing
Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case (CC-9011035-WW)
Motherboard
MSI Z170A Gaming M5
Windows
Windows 10 Home
Ram
Kingston HyperX Fury Black Series 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2133MHz CL14 Dual-Channel DIMMs
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 850W Power Supply 80 Plus Gold Certified Full Modular Power Supply
- MSI is not a motherboard builder but a reconfig builder, ASUS may be worth checking out in this regard.
- you did not mention selected cooling mechanism. Whichever you choose, be it passive radiator or liquid, ensure you have CASE clearance for your selection. I know more than one person who discovered the hard way "it ain't gonna fit" since he selected a passive cooling radiator that resembled the tower of Babel.
edit note- on a tower case, the passive rad is gonna be side-ways mounted usually, this is a HUGE weight strain on the MB connection to consider!
As far as the motherboard I like it because it seems like it gets solid reviews and provides a reasonable opportunity to upgrade at a date well into the future should I find that I really need to. When I last bought a motherboard I actually bought it with a bundle and it only ended up costing (between both the motherboard and the processor) about $300 Canadian (in 2008 dollars). But the consequence of this was that I really had no options as far as upgrading the processor (without replacing the motherboard I mean), the ram options I had were pretty limited, and the spacing was tight (I would end up having to remove sticks of ram to remove a hard drive and even then the hard drive would just barely fit in).